Always use alkaline prespray first, dwell and scrub as needed depending on conditions and what type of chems are being used. Some better chems dont require scrubbing for light to medium soil. Rinse with your Turboforce spinner at 800+ psi and as much heat as you can get. Use clear water, no need for a rinse solution. If you see any spots or stains that you cant get from the alkaline, one of three things will be required, either clean again, or there is soil underneath the existing sealer, so that will need to be stripped off, or you may need to acid wash the trouble areas. I like Prochem acid because it has the best concentration at 1:17 so a little goes a long way. Most competing products are 1:1 or 1:4. After acid washing, neutralize again with your alkaline of choice and rinse. If you still have stains, the last resort would be color sealing to cover them up.
On my truck, I carry my alkalines of choice (2790 and WildFire), acid of choice (Prochem), Stripper (Juggernaut for now, and orange gel stripper), and solvent sealer (Kleenrite). Along with grout shark brush, mini shark, and 8" Unger mini deck brush. CRB with stiff brushes speeds up the agitation process too where needed. However I usually only do a quick scrub in the trouble areas of residential. I also carry lots of rags so I can use them as "step off" areas to wipe my feet after walking on the chems. I do not wear shoe covers while tile cleaning, but I will step off the tile, dry my feet, then put some shoe covers on while walking around a residential job.
You need to be very careful of cheap baseboards, if its fiber board, it will swell like a wet tampon when wet, and you will be paying to replace. You can use a mop to apply pre-spray, or spray on the floor, but either way, stay about a foot away from all edges during application. Then use a brush to push towards the wall. Some people will tape off the baseboards, but the more important fact is it getting it UNDER the baseboards, because that's where it will absorb the most since its not painted. 95% of residential jobs will not require acid, but I have run in to a few issues where homeowners attempted to clean and seal, but didnt get it clean enough so they locked in the dirt with their sealer.
For commercial, its a different game, but most practice is the same. A black pad works great for scrubbing cove riser if needed. If you see calcium or mineral buildup, still use the alkaline first, but you will certainly need an acid to break up and dissolve it. Then neutralize again. You will see this mostly in restrooms, pool areas, and dishwasher areas.
The reason we clean with alkaline first is because most soiling is acidic, such as food, dirt from outside, etc. In order to break this acidic soiling apart, and release from the surface being cleaned, we need chemistry on the opposite side of the pH scale. Depending on the type of surface, anything from a neutral cleaner up to a 14pH would be used. Once this topical soiling is removed, we can use acid next if needed to chemically etch and break apart any mineral deposits or efflo. If you were to use acid first, it would not be effective because it would not cut through the greasy acidic soil on top.
Most ceramic tile I would suggest at least a 12ph. In this range, Prochem tile cleaner is excellent. Moving up the pH scale, my top two favorite are 2790 and WildFire, both 14 pH and very rarely need scrubbing in residential. 2790 is a liquid alkaline containing potassium hydroxide and WildFire is a powder specifically formulated for greasy kitchens, but can be used in other applications as well. Both are biodegradable, but the WildFire is caustic, so just be careful with use because it will decay organic material.
For all of the above, dwell time is most critical, with proper agitation and chem use, tile cleaning can be very lucrative for you as you gain experience. If you have any questions any time, feel free to shoot me a PM. I sell a wide variety of industry leading equipment and chemicals for the tile cleaning industry at www.cleanprosupply.com.