Full Room Carpet Dye Equipment - Twin Turbo 4800 Watt Heat + Water Hog!

Full Room Carpet Dye Equipment - Twin Turbo 4800 Watt Heat + Water Hog!

Full Room Carpet Dye Equipment - Twin Turbo 4800 Watt Heat!

Portable equipment in this industry has been changing constantly, and the leader in this change continues to be Mytee Products. In this blog post, I will share some very exciting new equipment that is available at a very reasonable price which will be perfect for use with full room carpet dye color restoration jobs, primarily taught by Chris Howell from Colorful Carpets.

Before we get in to the new equipment, lets talk about most heated portable extractors. Even to this day, there are many machines on the market that promote their internal heat as a bonus feature. This is great!...or is it?... We have found that many internal heaters in portable extractors have a very wide range of "power." Meaning, there is a very wide range of specifications for internal heaters in portable machines. So how much "power" is really needed to sustain consistent heat? Well that depends on what it's being used for. If carpet cleaning, I personally suggest a minimum of 1800 watts when cleaning at 250-300 psi. However 2000-2400 watts would be more ideal for 300-350 psi. With pressure higher than this, the heat transfer from the heating rods simply can not keep up with the higher water flow, resulting is less consistent heat and temperatures that may not be at the max potential. Up until now, I have strongly suggested the use of the Mytee Hot Turbo external heater, as it is/(was) the strongest heater on the market that we carry. This unit is still a great option for carpet cleaning, and far surpasses the performance of other brand electronic heaters on the market, but this article is not about carpet CLEANING....

So whats the big announcement? Mytee has just released a brand new heater to the market called the Mytee Hot Twin Turbo heater. This unit is rated at 4800 watts, double the power of the original unit. It is also rated for up to 1500 psi, where the original version was rated for 500-600 psi. This is great news for two untapped services, but for the same reason.  With twice the heating power, and higher pressure limitations, this means we can use this new heater for MORE CONSISTENT HEAT, with MAXIMUM POTENTIAL TEMPERATURES, at HIGHER WATER PRESSURE. (I made these in bold so they stand out to people skimming the article). As you know, when using Chris's carpet dyes, your dye solution needs to be HOT, and must STAY HOT with reliable consistent heat.

How does this help us? Well, so far, the primary options for full room carpet dyeing have been the use of a heated portable, costing well over $3000 for the better quality machines, as long as we know they have good sustained heat. What we can now do, is offer a bundle package, using this new and improved heater plus a water pressure pump and solution tank. Unless doing a "color clean," there really is no need for vacuum motors and a waste tank.  

So here it is, this bundle package includes:

(1) Mytee Hot Twin Turbo Heater - 2 cords, 4 switches, 4800 watts of heat
(1) Mytee Water hog - 1 cord, up to 400-1200 psi, 9 gallon fresh water tank
(3) 25' sections of Eagle Wash 1/4" Solution Hose, for a total of 75 feet
(3) Male Brass quick connects
(3) Female Safety Brass Quick Connects with Plastic Sleeve Cover (to prevent burning yourself)
(1) 16 oz Measuring Cup

How do we use it?
Chris can provide more details of the actual process to dye the carpet, but from a machine perspective, its rather simple. Mix your dye and water solution into the 9 gallon fresh water tank. Attach the Twin Turbo Heater to the outlet of the Water Hog. Then attach your solution line to the outlet of the Twin Turbo Heater. Only use as much solution line as you need for the job, to keep the heater as close to your wand or sprayer as possible. You can also detach sections as you work towards the machine and progress through the job. The idea here is to prevent as much heat loss as possible from the line itself. Next, turn on the water hog, set pressure to desired psi, turn on the heater, and start spraying. If you have clear water in th

e line, you may want to spray into a bucket until you start to see the colored water begin to spray out. If the water is coming out hot at this point, you are ready to begin, however if the heater is still warming up, it would be best to start cycling your dye water solution. So submerge the sprayer into the fresh tank of the water hog, and then pull the trigger until the water coming out of your sprayer is at the desired temperature. Now go ahead and do what you do best....When done, turn off equipment, empty the solution tank of the water hog, refill with clear fresh water, leave all lines attached, heater turned off, water hog on, and spray into a bucket until the water begins to come out clear again. This will flush your lines clean so it is ready for the next use.

3 cords? Wow! What if we don't Have 3 Circuits?
This is a great question. But also a very easy one to answer. Lets first look at the original Mytee Hot Turbo. This unit is a 2400 watt unit, with 4 switches, one cord. Each switch operates a separate internal "thermostat" which draws up to 5 amps each. So on a 20 amp dedicated circuit, all 4 switches can be used for max heat without popping any circuit breakers. If only a 15 amp circuit is available, the user can leave one switch off, turning 3 switches on, using only a max of 15 amps. Of course this won't create as much heat, but it's better than no heat. So on tho the Twin Turbo Heater. This still utilizes 4 switches, but being a 2 corded unit, drawing 4800 watts, each switch will pull a max of 10 amps. We have several options.

1 - 4800 W Full power, all 4 switches on, each cord pulling 20 amps
2 - 3600 W Partial power, 3 switches on, cord one at 20 amps, cord two at 10 amps
3 - 2400 W Partial power, 2 switches on, cord one at 10 amps, cord two at 10 amps
4 - 2400 W Partial Power, 2 switches on, cord one at 20 amps, cord two not plugged in

So you can see, if you only have limited power available, whether its the number of circuits or the size of the circuits, or both, you can still modify your setup to work at maximum ability based on what is available. 

If you have any further questions, would like more details, or believe I have given some bad info here, please let me know. I would appreciate any feedback or suggestions you may have, and I will update this blog for others to benefit from.

Jan 20th 2020 David Belliveau

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